Wicket metal drawings scheme sketches design. We manufacture and install the door in the fence ourselves. Manufacturing with installation

Beautiful homemade gates made of wood, lattice, mesh or corrugated board can decorate any personal plot, especially if you approach their manufacture creatively. The process itself will not take much time, money and tools, and the size, shape and appearance gates can be completely individual.

Below are five options for step-by-step instructions for making a gate with your own hands with a photo and a detailed description.

Option 1 - Wooden

The basis for a wooden gate can be solid wood, plywood, beams or picket fence, depending on the desired result. The body is made of a metal profile welded with a rectangle, or beams connected by fasteners or metal brackets, corners in the shape of the letter “Z” or a rectangle with an oblique crossbar.

The hinged frame is attached to the pillar support, and then the prepared outer frame is fixed on the base. Plywood is used as a solid plate, and the picket fence and boards can be placed close to each other, at some distance and even at different levels.

The final stage involves the installation of a latch, a handle, a hook, as well as painting the product, applying drawings, and a varnish layer.

However, more experimental options are also possible. For example, an asymmetric gate can be made from stripped and processed thick branches or a frame of rods entwined with a vine or rose garden.

Option 2 - From corrugated board

Metal gates made of corrugated board will be more reliable and durable. For the manufacture of the frame, it is desirable to use pipes similar to the frame of the fence, and weld them together and to the supporting pillars. To strengthen the structure, it is recommended to weld a transverse horizontal or vertical crossbar.

It is important to constantly clean and sand the seams to make the gate smooth and aesthetic. Also, the frame is treated with special anti-corrosion agents.

The corrugated board is mounted using a drill and a gun for rivets or self-tapping screws, and at the final stage, linings, handles, a lock or a latch are installed.

Option 3 - From the grid

The most simple model- this is a chain-link gate, which can be made as soon as possible. To do this, two metal supports are installed in the ground, and a mesh is stretched and fixed between them. This design is suitable for placement inside the site, since transparency is not always pleasant and safe. It is better to decorate the product with a bright painting of the frame.

Option 4 - From shovels and pitchforks

An unusual solution for a gate for a garden or garden area separated by a fence will be a fence made of old tools.

So, unnecessary shovels, forks, rakes, a scythe are attached vertically or horizontally to a frame made of straight narrow beams, branches, after which the product is aligned along the perimeter and painted in a single color.

Option 5 - Forged

The most complex in terms of technology and incredibly beautiful as a result is a forged gate, captivating with its openwork, incredible patterns and curves. True, for such a miracle, at least a welding machine is needed, and as a maximum, a grinder, a device for spiral twisting, a spray gun and a vice.

But the basis for the gate can be all the metal scraps lying around in the household, rods, plates, gratings, and even a broken bicycle.

Having laid out all the available elements on the ground and giving them the necessary shape and size, we proceed to welding, painting and attaching to the fence.

Before you make a gate with your own hands, it is recommended that you read some tips:

Gate drawings should include data on the dimensions, location of hinges, logs, crossbars, locks, valves, handles, the depth of installation of supports in the ground;
The finished gate can be decorated with an openwork visor, carved edging or a mailbox;
The entrance can be in the same color scheme as the fence, or, on the contrary, have a contrasting shade;
Black hinges and locks are in perfect harmony with the tree.

A homemade gate will become an unusual and bright decoration of the site, if you approach its manufacture as creatively as possible, without being afraid to take risks, experiment and use unusual things.

Anything can become the basis for a future product, the main thing is not to forget to first draw up a plan and drawing, calculate the dimensions and focus on the combination with the existing design of the house and the fence.

DIY gate photo

Doing it yourself is not such a laborious process as it might seem at the very beginning of the work. The most important thing here is to have the necessary materials and tools available. In their manufacture and installation, it is imperative to observe safety precautions and be especially careful when cutting metal. This type of gate is ideal for private houses and cottages.

Benefits of swing gates:

simplicity of design;
installation that does not require special skills;
low cost;
versatility of application;
long operational period.

Drawbacks of swing gates:

Availability free space for opening sashes;
in the winter season, clearing the territory.

In fact, these shortcomings are considered so insignificant that they do not affect the popularity of gates of this type among the owners of a private courtyard.

And, despite the new proposals, modern designs and technical innovations, swing gates have been leaders in use in comparison with others for many years.

Basically, a profiled sheet is used for the production of gates, less often a tree.

Required materials for the manufacture of gates:

profiled sheet;
sheet steel thickness;
frame profile;
foundation racks;
loops for fastening the canvas;
hinges for a padlock;
bolts;
concrete mortar;
bricks or stones;
ruberoid.

Gate mounting tools:

tape measure, pencil, building level;
welding machine;
keys set;
drill and grinder;
self-tapping screws;
screwdriver

How to install swing gates

Do-it-yourself installation of sashes is carried out on pre-prepared and already installed supporting pillars. Bearing pillars can be made with your own hands from hardwood, concrete, metal pipes with a cross section of no more than 10 cm. They can also be made from stone or brick pillars.
Before this, the pillars need to be concreted in special pits. We do this for good fixation of the pillars, which should not be adversely affected by the state of the soil and other possible mechanical influences in the future.
If a profile or metal pipes are used as pillars, then a metal sheet measuring 250 by 250 mm is welded to one of their ends. This is done to ensure that the poles are securely in the ground. For better balance, 2 pieces of reinforcement can be additionally welded to this design, interconnected crosswise. And while the racks are in a free position, weld canopies to them.
Now you need to properly install and concrete the pillars. In this regard, it is necessary to dig 2 holes, with a depth of at least 60 cm and a diameter of 30 cm.
In order for the foundation to be strong enough, the bottom of the pit is poured with concrete, and the walls are lined with roofing material.
A support is placed on the concrete, which is aligned vertically and fixed with bricks or stones.
Some gravel is poured and concrete pouring begins. The liquid mixture should reach the level of the horizontal surface where the column rests.
Thus, alternating concrete, stones and rubble, you should ensure that the installation of the pillar is correct and clear.
Filling the column with your own hands stops when the level of the mixture reaches ground level or slightly higher.
The second support is installed in the same way.
In the process of work, it is necessary to constantly monitor the exact verticality of the racks and their height. Before cutting the pipes, they must first be tried on to the pits. After all, each support can have its own depth and length, and it also depends on the soil of the earth.
If stone or brick is used as supports, then in this case a hole is dug and the laying of brick or stone begins on the concrete mortar. But here it is necessary to make reinforcement with reinforcement with your own hands. And for the possibility of carrying out installation work, metal plates and corners should be fixed and removed from the racks.
Regardless of the material used, the mounted posts will be finally prepared for the fastening of the leaves in about 20 days. It is after this period that they will gain final strength and it will be possible to install the gate. But in practice, the sash is fixed in a week.

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How to make a gate frame

It will be necessary to take a pipe for the frame, for example, a rectangular profile measuring 30 by 50 mm. The pipe is marked according to the dimensions made in the gate opening and cut into the required lengths. The segments are welded together with a simple horizontal seam, using electrodes with a diameter of 3 mm.

Welding is best done in the following way:

lay out all the details of the frame on the ground;
connect them together with light welding;
fit all the details one to the other to get an even quadrangle;
well weld the joints;
reinforce the joints with the help of sheet steel overlays.
The same should be done with the second part of the suspensions, it should be welded so that there is a gap of about 8 cm between the ground and the canvas.

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Hinges for swing gates

Since the whole structure will be held on the hinges, their quality should be paid Special attention. Hinges for gates and gates must be massive, that is, garage. Two hinges for each leaf and separately for the gate will be enough.

Since the hinges of this purpose are held on the metal, they must be adapted for such fasteners. This will require 6 plates measuring 3 by 4 cm with a metal thickness of more than 3 mm. You can cut out the necessary rectangles from pipe scraps with your own hands and straighten them with a hammer. Finished plates must be cleaned of rust.

The hinges consist of 2 parts, the part that has a pin is welded to the pole, and the other part is welded to the wings. The place of welding should be cleaned and holes drilled in the “ears” with a diameter of up to 3 mm. On each plate, the number of holes will be different: for the leaves 4 pieces and for the pole 1 piece.

Wicket performs important function. But in addition to protection from intruders, the gate can serve as a great addition to the suburban area. There are many building materials from which you can make a gate with your own hands. This article talks about a few simple technologies.

To equip a wooden gate, you will need the following building materials:

ten larch boards 2000 × 140 × 20;
two pine boards 2000 × 150 × 50;
two hinges, latch and door handle;
six metal gear plates;
four brass plates and one corner;
about forty pieces of brass screws;
a can of primer for wood;
protective agent bank;
one can of varnish.

For successful work, you need to acquire the following tool:

chisel with a hammer;
hacksaw for wood;
planer;
drill;
electric jigsaw;
sandpaper, pencil, piece of string and level.

For fastening the gate, it is most convenient to use two concrete pillars. Work begins with the manufacture of two sidewalls from pine boards, on which your gate will be fixed. After aligning the boards vertically (using a level), you can use self-tapping screws to fix both sidewalls on the support pillars.

Then we proceed to the assembly of the frame, which is assembled from four well-painted larch boards. The corners of the structure are reinforced with corrosion-protected strips mounted on self-tapping screws.

In order to give the entire resulting structure greater rigidity, special-shaped metal-toothed plates can be used, which should be slightly sunk into the wood during installation. Now you can install the hinges of the future gate on the previously prepared support frame.

After checking the entry of the finished frame into the opening of the gate, you can begin to manufacture a special brace, which gives additional rigidity to the entire assembled structure. This strut is fixed on the base with the help of the same metal-toothed plates.

We attach the finished frame to the hinges and install the first sheathing board on it. Each of the installed boards must be fixed with at least two self-tapping screws, and the corner boards - with three. At the same time, a hole should be drilled under each self-tapping screw and countersunk it so that the head can be drowned.

Then a handle and a valve are installed, and an oval of the upper cut of the boards is drawn along the top of the boards with a rope (used as a compass) and a pencil. Cutting the boards along this oval is carried out using an electric jigsaw.

Wicket with gate

It is not always possible to install the gate separately from the gate. In this case, you can install a gate in the gate. Considering this type of construction, we will learn how to do it using corrugated board:

First of all, install the support pillars on which the gate leaves will be attached. Given the large load on the poles, their fasteners must be of high quality. For this reason, support posts should be tied to the main fence structure.
Now you can assemble the frame. Divide the total width of the opening into two equal parts. For the construction of the frame, you can use a profile pipe. This is an excellent material, as it is light in weight.
To fasten the profiled sheets to be symmetrical, place all horizontal guides at the same level in the frame.
In the section of the gate you have chosen, leave an opening for installing the gate. To do this, from the side of the frame of the wings fixed to the pole, weld a vertical guide from profile pipe. It is this guide that will hold the gate in the future.
The gate is made according to the given dimensions. At the same time, keep in mind that they must match up to millimeters. Therefore, several times check all measurements that relate to the opening for the gate.
Now that the wicket frame is ready, it is necessary to install the hinges on the gate frame and on the wicket itself. It is important here to avoid distortion. Therefore, it is better to lay the gate frame and wickets on a horizontal surface. Place the gate in its place and attach the hinges. Make marks at the intended installation sites for the hinges.
As for the hinges on the supporting pillars and on the frame of the gate structure, the situation is different here. Make appropriate markings on the posts, which will indicate the location of the gate. After, retreat 250 mm from each mark and fasten one half of the loops. Now go to the markings on the gate frame and mark the location of the second half of the loop. When doing this, take into account the distance calculated on the supports.

To simplify this task, you can prepare a special mounting plate in advance, which is welded to the hinge.

When the gate with a gate is installed on hinges, it remains to sheathe the frame with corrugated board.

If you do not want to carry out such a combination, then you can sew up the frame of the gate with completely monolithic polycarbonate.

As you can see from this article, there are many options for how and from what to make a gate. You can make your own experiments, combine different materials. The main thing is that the result is a beautiful gate that will be a great addition to the fence and your home.

Video

A photo

In the photo you can find a lot of ideas for making a gate:

Drawings and diagrams

Thanks to the given drawings, you will be able to design your gate:

We will send the material to you by e-mail

Gates are an integral part of any fence or garage. Today they can be made independently, the main thing is to choose the right type of construction. They will help you make the gate with your own hands: drawings, photos and videos. This information will also help determine the material from which the construction will be performed.

Gate in a private courtyard

The usual option for all are swing products. They are used in summer cottages, in private houses and in the construction of garages. A gate can also be located next to such options. The design involves the installation of two supporting elements along the edges of the canvas. Today, it is quite simple to make swing gates with your own hands. Drawings, photos and videos will help to study all the details of the work.

The device of the supporting elements

At the first stage of construction, it is necessary to install supports. Most often, these are metal poles of a suitable diameter, which are concreted into the ground. Very often done with brick columns. In this case, they can also be a support for the product. But do not forget when laying bricks, make metal mortgages to which hinges will be welded.

Leaf preparation

From which side such hinges will be welded, it depends in which direction they will open. That is why, when making a gate with your own hands: drawings, photos and videos must be viewed without fail. To make the sashes, a metal frame is most often used, to which sheet material is attached. If the fence is wooden, then it is more expedient to make the gate from wood. The frame in this case can be made both from metal corners and from a bar. It is important that the sashes are not too heavy, otherwise they will put a lot of stress on the posts and hinges. Over time, this can lead to deformation and the sashes will not close well.

Therefore, it is worth studying some information before making swing gates with your own hands. Photo and video drawings will help you get acquainted with all the subtleties in the work and prevent all kinds of defects. At the final stage, a locking system must be installed on the sashes. The simplest option may be a simple deadbolt.

Video: swing gates made of corrugated board and metal profiles

Features of the sliding gate device

Sliding options are increasingly used during the construction of fences. They take up relatively little space. In addition, the machine can be located only a few centimeters from the fence and this will not interfere with their opening or closing. The presence of a variety of building materials makes it possible for everyone to make sliding gates with their own hands. Drawings, photos and videos will allow you to more carefully study all the features of the work.

Sliding option

The main types of sliding gates:

console;
suspended;
retractable.

Hanging variety

The hanging version is not very popular. This is due to the fact that a rail is installed in the upper part, along which the canvas moves. This rail is a kind of limiter, so not every vehicle can enter the yard.

Recoil products

For the operation of retractable options, the rail is installed along the wall and directly in the opening itself. In the northern regions, such a system is not practical to use. Since at in large numbers snow, the operation of the flaps will be difficult, and it will be necessary to constantly clear snow-covered places.

Cantilever Benefits

The console type is by far the most popular. They can be used in both southern and northern regions. The movement of the canvas occurs above the ground, so there is no need to constantly clear the path. In addition, the advantages include the fact that there are no limiters at the top. This makes it possible to drive into the yard even for cars with a high height.

For this type of installation, only one support column is required, which will carry the entire load from the canvas. Therefore, it is important to make it as high quality and reliable as possible. The cantilever beam itself on the gate can be located below, above or in the middle of the leaf.

Useful information! The beam located in the middle is considered the most the best option, since it strengthens the entire structure as a whole.

Rollback model

Everyone cope with the implementation of sliding gates with their own hands. Drawings, photos and videos allow you to study the principle of a sliding system. It is important to take into account all recommendations when performing work.

Features of the implementation of sliding gates

Retractable options can significantly save space in the yard. But at the same time it is necessary to control the space along the fence. For the normal functioning of the system, it is first necessary to clear the place of debris and any vegetation.

Installation of support elements

The beginning of work is the device of the main support column, on which the main load will be applied. If you wish, you can perform and the video will help to comply with the technology. To work, you need to prepare the following tools:

To make the doors themselves, it is best to use galvanized material. It is able to serve for a long time, while retaining its original appearance. Polymer-coated profiled sheets are often used.

Useful information! The use of a profiled sheet is considered the most successful solution, since it is treated with special agents that prevent corrosion.

Products of this type can be equipped with automatic or manual drive.

Retractable drawing

At the beginning of work, it is worth preparing the drawings according to which the work will be performed. Drawings and diagrams also allow you to calculate the exact amount of material needed. The height of the gate must match the fence. The width of the opening can be very different. Retractable products exert pressure not only on the rails, but also on the pole, so special attention must be paid to its design. Its lower part must be immersed in the soil and concreted with high quality.

The device rails for the movement of the canvas

Sliding gates will walk along the rail, which is located on the ground. To do this, choose a U-shaped metal profile. Its length should be like two lengths of the canvas. For the stock, you need to make another 30 centimeters. It is important that the rail is installed on a concrete base. Only in this way can you get the most reliable design that will last a long time. After all the rail systems are installed and fixed to the support post, the electric drive can be installed.

Fabric assembly and installation

The door leaf is made from a metal frame, to which a profiled sheet will subsequently be attached. Rollers are attached to the bottom of the metal frame. The door leaf is installed last. Do-it-yourself sliding gates: drawings, photos and videos give full information about the design and process of work.

Tips and tricks for do-it-yourself work

To execute the gate of any design is within the power of each person. It is important to follow the recommendations of experts and first study some information.

Materials for work to choose only high quality. This will allow the structure to be operated for a long period and no repairs will be required.
It is important to pay attention to all drawings and diagrams. Only strict adherence to the scheme will allow you to do all the work correctly the first time. Compliance with dimensions and parameters make it possible to make a functional design that will work without problems.
The installation of an electric type drive must be carried out with a full understanding of the matter. If there is no experience in this area, it is worth entrusting all the implementation to specialists. They will do everything efficiently and quickly. Products will open and close without difficulty.
If the use of a roller system is envisaged, special attention should be paid to its choice. It is best to purchase it in specialized stores. In this case, the operation of such a system will be flawless for a long time.

Today, you can supplement the fence with a gate made by yourself. Various materials can be used for manufacturing. The most commonly used wood and metal. Before proceeding with the implementation, it is worth considering which type of design is best to use. Starting the implementation of the gate with your own hands: drawings, diagrams and photos will help you solve even complex problems. Swing gates are a classic option with a performance that everyone can handle. For their device, you need a lot of space so that they open freely. You can save space in your backyard with sliding or sliding gates.

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If the gate is the face of the house, then the gate is a smile on it. Even if it is somewhere inside and leads to the garden. Do-it-yourself wicket - a welcoming and relaxed smile. Therefore, it is necessary to treat the manufacture of this generally unpretentious product diligently and with soul.

materials

Here the choice is not so rich. Plastic sections of the fence, gate leaves and gates are durable, can be quite attractive and do not require preliminary excavation, but, alas, they are not fire resistant and do not resist vandalism: it is easy to stick into the ground - it is easy to pull it out. Outside of production conditions, plastics are low-tech and labor-intensive, therefore do-it-yourself gates and are most often made of wood and metal. In this case, plastic can be used as an auxiliary and finishing material, which is discussed below.

Note: fittings will also be required for gates and gates. To make it yourself (the fittings are not structurally complicated) or to buy it is a master's business. What to choose sensibly or take as a sample, see fig. right below. Something in addition, if and where necessary, see later in the course of the presentation.

In general about the design

It is customary to make the entrance gate open inwards. This is necessary, first of all, for the safety of both visitors and hosts: moving away from the swinging sash, the guest runs the risk of getting his shoes into the mud, or even crashing onto the roadway. Also, if the gate opens outward, then the hinge hinges will be on the street, which will facilitate the work of potential intruders. If the swing gate can be made to open only outward, anti-burglary hinges must be installed, and either a viewing window should be made in the sash, or an intercom should be installed at the entrance.

The width of the gate leaf (sashes without hinges and locks) is taken as for interior doors- 750-1000 mm. It is impossible to narrow its canvas to 600-650 mm, as for doors to utility rooms and common areas: they go through the gate in outerwear. If you make it wider, then accidentally unlocked, it can slam in the wind so that the loops will turn out. The height of the gate is taken according to the height of the fence, but for the same wind reasons, not more than the height of the passage above the stairs, i.e. 1.9-2 m. Between the leaf of the gate, the pole on which it is hung, and other framing elements, a gap of 6 mm from the side of the hinges, from 80 mm at the bottom and from 2 mm along other 2 sides.

In order not to put extra pillars, which in this case is the most time-consuming, one of the gates is often made common with the gate: gate hinges are attached to it on one side, and gate hinges on the other. The "backbone" of this pillar in any case should be steel, although a wooden pillar is also possible for the opposite collar. A reinforced common post is also required if the gate is built into the gate. Then you need to take into account something else, see below.

Note: it is impossible to make gate pillars in the form of an asbestos-cement pipe concreted and filled with concrete, as is sometimes advised - the entire pillar turns out to be fragile. Remember - the gate pillars are not piles, they are subject to fast alternating dynamic loads, and without an elastic base, the pillars will either crack or loosen pretty soon.

If the fence posts are solid brick, then the gates must be laid in 1.5 bricks with a gate height of up to 1.6 m and in 2 bricks with a higher height, using special schemes (orders) of 3-row dressing of seams for corner fence posts, see fig. .

This business requires a fairly large experience of a bricklayer, but steel embedded parts for attaching hinges still do not always hold securely. So it would be better to make brick gate posts by folding them around a steel pipe ridge according to a simplified masonry pattern for intermediate fence posts; rows of masonry then simply alternate in mirror image.

Brick in this case is a more decorative material, so you can use a fragile, but beautiful facing: a pipe with a diameter of up to 120 mm will enter the central clearance of the pillar. Mortgages, which have now become just overlays, are connected to it with pieces of reinforcing bars for welding, see fig. on right. The locations of the mortgages and their connections with the ridge must be calculated in advance so that they fall on the masonry joints, otherwise you will have to hammer grooves in the bricks. The pipe-line is being concreted "in full", not less than 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth in the area.

Note: in general, the erection and fixing of pillars and columns in the ground is a special branch of the construction industry. Concreting here requires particularly reliable. For gates and gates, it can be simplified using the techniques of TISE technology, see for example. video below. By the way, the idea of the authors is really good, but it is still not necessary to prime the concreted parts of steel parts. And we will return to the gate as such.

Video: concreting pillars for gates and gates

About corrugated board

A gate made of corrugated board is good not only due to the availability of material, speed and manufacturability, but also because the corrugated steel sheet gives the sheet additional strength. It is believed that the appearance is utilitarian. However, gates with corrugated boarding gates can be improved in various ways, see below.

wooden gates

Simple picket and rack

Cloths of gates of small height, or openwork, or located in places sufficiently protected from gusts of wind, are made of wood according to the so-called. frame scheme, although in truth it is not a frame, but with a load-bearing sheathing: the entire canvas acquires design rigidity only when overhead strips are installed on the “frame”. For gates of ordinary sizes, the supporting supporting elements are made of boards (30-40) x (130-150), and overhead strips are also made of boards (15-25) x (60-100). In this case, the "frame" is made in a Z-shaped pattern, pos. 1 and 2 in fig.

wooden gates

If the decorative filling is very subtle and is not capable of carrying loads, the frame is made into a “butterfly” or “hourglass”, in the form of an X-shaped support with crossbars along the edges. In the "butterfly" under the crate of slats from 10x20 mm, 2 horizontal crossbars are placed, at the top and bottom, and the "hourglass", pos. 3, for any, even film, finish, framed on all sides. Such gates are more labor-intensive, because the support boards at the crosshairs cut into half a tree, and the hourglass must also be cut into the frame.

For a gate extended in height, the E-shaped support structure, pos. 4. A special case is a wattle gate. The wattle thing is quite strong and tough, but not for twisting diagonally. In the gate, the earth does not hold him back, so the wattle gate is reinforced with an Λ-shaped support. It is enough to reinforce only the lower half in this way, pos. 5, this does not deprive the wattle gate of a rustic look, especially when the wood darkens.

Garden and rustic

The garden gate is most often not designed uniformly and is openwork. Then, in order to ensure the rigidity and strength of the canvas, it is made framed: all the loads are taken over by a frame made of timber from 40x100. Its parts at the joints are cut into half a tree with waterproof glue and pulled together with pairs of diagonally located screws. Excellent frame gates are obtained from the wings of old doors and windows for fine glazing, pos. 1 in fig. Under an oblique lath crate without a tie-in at the crosshairs, the corners of the frame are additionally reinforced with scarves from the board (15-30) x (80-150), pos. 2. Sections of the frame for heterogeneous decorative filling are separated by crossbars, pos. 4 and 5.

Solid input

Particularly durable, and when impregnated with fire retardants, synthetic resins and made of hardwood and vandal-proof, there will be a wooden panel gate, see fig. left. In this case, the frame is made of timber from 50x150, and its details are connected in the corners into a tenon-groove. A grooved board from (30-40)x100 is used for filling. The dimensions of the frame are taken such that an integer number of boards fit in its window without taking into account the height of the tongue crest. Inside the frame along the contour, a groove is selected; one of the extreme boards enters it with a tongue tongue, and the tongue groove of the opposite one is connected to the frame groove with dowels (lamellae).

Note: overhead hinges of frame and shield gates can be shortened, see fig. on the right, so-called. semi-barn (overhead loops of full length - granary). You can't use card loops anyway.

Wicket - arrow

In the garden, a wooden lancet gate looks especially elegant, see for example. photo in fig. on right. The gate-arrow is considered quite laborious, but in fact it is not difficult to make it for a novice master. The material is enough for a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 5-6 mm, and from a special tool you will need a jigsaw and, preferably, a screwdriver.

The scheme of cutting the material and assembling the lancet top of the gate is shown in fig. below. You will need 12 pieces in total, 6 per side. 4 medium ones, if necessary, are narrowed from the inside under the decorative filling (shown by the dotted line). Before assembling the boom, all blanks are impregnated twice with a water-polymer emulsion, if the plywood is ordinary construction or packaging. The "legs" of the 2 middle parts are shortened by about 100 mm to fit on the spike.

An lancet pommel is assembled on PVA glue and small notched nails or self-tapping screws. Fastener length 20mm for 5mm plywood and 24mm for 6mm plywood. First, 4 front parts are assembled, including those shortened for a spike, and then 2 remaining back parts are attached to them. The parts are knocked down / screwed together with a “snake” (zigzag) in increments of 80-150 mm with an indent from the edge of 30-40 mm. The back "snake" should be a mirror image of the front.

The straight legs of the "boom" can be shortened according to the overall design of the gate. At the upper ends of its vertical posts, a spike is cut out for landing an arrow. They plant an arrow on the same PVA and reinforce it with 4 diagonal pairs of self-tapping screws, 2 each in front and behind. The back pairs should be a mirror image of the front ones.

Wicket and pergola

A pergola in a general sense is a building without walls and a roof. For example, a garden pergola may simply be a trellis tunnel through which vines are planted. The classic pergola, a colonnade in 2 more rows, crowned with crossed beams, became known in Europe thanks to the ancient Greeks, but was invented either in Ancient Egypt, whether in Persia for palaces and temples.

The fact is that a classic pergola gives a rather strong psychological effect of dominance of the structure and, accordingly, of its owner. In the despotic East, the pergola was supposed to suppress the pride of the visitor before he approached the throne or altar. Unfortunately, there is no way to go into the subtleties of why this is so, but this effect is quite objective, like the pacifying effect of a pond mirror with water lilies or thoughts of abundance inspired by a lush flower bed.

Therefore, to supply the entrance gate with a monumental pergola, as in pos. 1 fig., it’s better not to: the guest may turn out to be a person on whom the course of your affairs depends. And then he will not know why he lost loyalty to you, and to you - why everything suddenly went to pieces.

In less authoritarian Europe, this was immediately understood, and the pergola, wrapped in flowers to soften the pressure, was moved to a resting corner of the garden, where guests are allowed at the owner's choice. In addition, as soon as the arch was invented, they began to crown the pergola with it, pos. 2; rounded pommel significantly softens the effect of dominance. In the chambers, the pergola was replaced by an enfilade, inspiring a sense of grandeur, without humiliating dignity.

If the overall design still requires a classic pergola at the entrance, then it should be made visually as light as possible, and the fence and gate should be openwork and as low as possible, pos. 3. Openness will negate the dominance of the pergola. Another option is a single-row pergola, somewhat stylized as a Buddhist-Shinto shrine, pos. 4. It evokes a feeling of belittling weaker and it is already associated with higher powers That doesn't hurt anyone in their right mind.

Metal gates

The basis of a metal gate is a metal profile; as a rule - a square steel pipe 60x60 (2-3). A rectangular frame is welded from it according to the size of the gate leaf. For reinforcement under corrugated sheathing, the 1st cross member from the same pipe, located in the middle of the web height, is sufficient. If round is used water pipe, to strengthen under the profiled sheet, you need to put a diagonal stiffener and strengthen the corners with scarves from 200x200 to 300x300 from a steel sheet of 3-5 mm. In this case, when sheathing with a sheet 1.5 mm thick with a wave of 15x150, it is possible to bring the width of the leaf up to 1.5 m, this is already a real gate leaf, see fig.

How is the metal gate arranged for any other decorative filling, incl. and wooden, see fig. below: the frame is additionally reinforced with the same cross member, but from a professional pipe 40x25 (1.5-2), and 2 struts from the middle to the outer corners.

The reinforcement elements are edge-welded to the frame flush with the inner plane of the frame, this will give a recess for mounting the filling. Under it, from small parts (for example, a rack grate), the same pipe 40x25 (1.5-2), or a steel corner, is mounted inside along the contour of the frame.

A gate of this design, sheathed with scraps of metal siding, looks pretty decent, see fig. on right. And for garden sheathing or other, to which vandals cannot reach, the remains of any external finishing material will go: plastic lining, blockhouse, etc.

Note: the steel wing of the gate weighs more than 20 kg even without sheathing. Therefore, bearing in mind the same sudden wind loads, the hinges for it must be taken garage, see fig. left. For the gate, loops with a diameter of (16-20)x120 with a ball stop are sufficient. More powerful on the support bearing, of course, will not interfere.

The “most complete” scheme for reinforcing a metal gate, designed for any cladding and operation in the most severe conditions, turns out to be not much more material and time-consuming: it comes down to a short additional brace at each corner and mounting the gate on a separate post. A drawing of a metal gate frame with a gate for all occasions is shown in fig. below.

The manufacture of such gates with a wicket has some features, namely: first they make the gate itself, with precise installation of the pillars, checking for opening and closing, etc. Then there is a technological break of 20 days, until the concrete foundations of the gate pillars gain 75% strength; meanwhile, you can make a gate with a pillar. Its canvas is temporarily fixed tightly in the closed state with bolts or clamps. Sheathing gates and gates are not yet done.

A pillar with a gate is placed in the well;
Align vertically in the transverse plane, fixing with wooden liners;
The gate leaf is moved to the gate post, solid gaskets are placed under its edge, providing the necessary operational clearance, see above, and fixed with clamps;
The wicket post is set vertically in the longitudinal plane, simultaneously controlling whether the installation has gone astray in the transverse plane, i.e. use 2 plumb lines;
The wicket post is finally fixed and concreted;
Sheathing of all sashes and installation of fittings is carried out no earlier than 7 days (at +18 in the shade) after the concrete has set in the foundation of the wicket column.

Wicket at the gate

Lots of work and a lot Money will save the gate with a gate built into the gate leaf. True, this applies only to metal swing gates. A gate built into a sliding or lifting gate complicates their independent production so much that it is perhaps better to put an additional post. If the gate is hinged, then the gate in their leaf is made according to the following rules, see on the right in fig. below:

The pillar adjacent to the gate is made of reinforced steel (pipe from 100x100x4) and concreted for at least 1.2 m, regardless of the freezing depth.
The width of the gate leaf is made no more than half the width of the gate leaf.
The scheme of reinforcing the gate leaves is preserved, but on the gate with the gate it seems to be compressed horizontally.
The wicket frame is made with a cross member from the main pipe (60x60x3) and a pair of diagonal stiffening ribs from a 40x25x pipe from the middle to the outer corners.

With wooden gates, the situation is somewhat more complicated: put the gate in the leaf of the wooden gate without losing overall strength in this case, it is possible only if the gate is made of durable solid (and expensive) wood. If the gate is made of ordinary coniferous wood, then the gate must be hung nearby, and the pillar common to it and the gate must be steel, concreted to full depth. In both cases, gate leaves and wickets are framed with additional diagonal stiffening (see left in the figure) from timber from 150x50.

Different wicket differences

Portal

The portal of the gate is not necessarily a pergola, it has only recently come into fashion. Most often, a canopy (visor) is made over the gate from the rain, on the left in fig. He does not require extra space outside (which is no longer the property of the owner), but it is convenient for the guest, and there is reason to respect the owner. According to the old rules of hospitality, it was considered good form if the portal-canopy of the gate was brought out at least 3-4 feet (about 0.9-1.2 m). Inside - as much as you like, even a continuous tunnel to the porch.

Note: from modern materials for the roof of the portal-canopy, cellular polycarbonate is best suited. relatively inexpensive, technologically available for making with your own hands, strong, durable, aesthetically well consistent with a fence, gates and gates made of any material or combinations thereof.

The second type of wicket portals is constructive and technological. These are designed primarily to ensure the strength of the capital stone fence, right there. It is not forbidden to equip the capital portal of the gate with a canopy by anyone, anywhere.

Fences with gates and wickets made of mesh are not very aesthetic, they do not block anything from view, but they are inexpensive, technologically uncomplicated, less laborious and more maintainable than others. Therefore, they are most often fenced in household yards, premises for productive pets, etc. For sheathing the fence, the chain-link mesh is mainly used as it is more technologically advanced and durable.

The peculiarity of gate leaves and gates made of mesh is that the sheathing, on the one hand, is not capable of bearing any load; on the other hand, it is freely blown and gives very little wind loads. Therefore, the sash frames can be made from a corner from 40x40 for a gate and from 60x60 for a gate. But in both cases, the reinforcement should be in the form of at least the 1st full diagonal connection, as in a gate on a frame made of a round pipe, from the same corner, see fig. Gate posts - round pipe from 100 mm in diameter or square from 60x60x3.

Forged gates

A good custom-made hand-forged gate, on the left in the figure, will cost at current prices hardly cheaper than 35-40 thousand rubles. And yet, a forged gate, and a unique one, for a middle-class householder may not be such an inaccessible luxury at all.

Blacksmiths don't make lazy people. Blacksmith craftsmen in their free time gradually forge monograms, flowers, etc. from the remains and scraps. for sale. A lot of work will either be, or not, and small forged decorative elements will always find a market. Here you can buy them at reasonable prices. There is also a decor for gates with wickets, forged (more precisely, stamped) under production conditions, but such products of the same type are all the same, and handmade is handmade.

The gate, sheathed with the most utilitarian smooth steel sheet, with piece forging superimposed on it, takes on a completely different look, in the center in fig. Forging is especially well combined with wood. Look at the right in Fig. To give respectability to a completely unpretentious picket gate on a Z-frame, just 3 small forged parts are enough. That's really cheap and cheerful.