DIY circular saw from a circular saw. How to make a table for a circular saw. Upper transverse clamping bar

If a person lives in a private house or has country garden plot, then the presence of a stationary circular saw in the arsenal home handyman not only desirable, but sometimes necessary. Unfortunately, the cost of an industrially manufactured sample of such a saw does not correspond to the frequency of its home use, and for some Russians it is simply unaffordable. At the same time, making a “circular” with your own hands is quite simple, using the drive of a sewing machine or a regular electric drill. However, the quality of work performed and the range of operations performed largely depend on the bed of the circular saw.

Bed design

The simplest circular saw frame, the drive power of which does not exceed 0.8...12 kilowatts, is quite easy to make with your own hands from thick plywood and wooden blocks. For the drive, you can use an electric drill “BOSCH GSB 19-2” (power 0.85 kilowatts) or “DWT SBM-1050” (power 1.05 kilowatts), which is attached to under the stove using a special bracket. The length of the bed will depend on the length of the material being cut. For the table, you must purchase bakelite plywood with a thickness of at least 50.0 millimeters. Of course for professional work a wooden frame will not work, but in order to unravel the boards and quickly saw through the bars, such a homemade design is quite enough.

IN general case the bed will consist of a base and a tabletop (desktop). Of course, when manually making a circular saw yourself, you must strive to simplify the design as much as possible. The design of the work table will primarily be determined by the design of the cutting blade mounting unit. Homemade circular devices use either a circular disk mounted directly in the chuck of an electric drill, or (more preferably) a two-support shaft driven into rotation by an electric motor through a belt drive.

Making a countertop

At the first stage of making a frame with a wooden tabletop with your own hands, the existing sheet of plywood is placed in accordance with the existing sketch or drawing. In order to reduce the number of cuts, markings are carried out from the edges of the sheet. The tool used is a fine-toothed hacksaw or a jigsaw.

A slot for the disk is marked on the underside of the sawn piece. The cut can be made with a finger cutter, securing it with your own hands in the chuck of an electric drill. In order to maintain the straightness of the cut edges, a simple homemade copier made from two metal corners is attached to the tabletop with clamps.
Further work depends on the mechanism for attaching the circular saw blade. The easiest way is to install it manually on two bearing supports, and drive it through a belt drive from a separate electric motor or from an electric drill.

To add additional rigidity to the tabletop, it is advisable to attach stiffening ribs along its edges, which can be made from bars or aluminum corners. The stiffeners are fastened to the table using self-tapping screws. To give greater strength to the entire structure, an additional layer of epoxy glue can be applied to the joint, which will fix the block to the tabletop along the entire plane of the joint.
The distance from the edge of the tabletop to the block should be 2.0...4.0 centimeters.

After this, in accordance with the selected drive design, the circular disk support assembly is attached. For reliable fastening, it is better to fix the bearing housings to the frame using a screw, threaded connection. In this case, the countersunk screw heads are located on the upper plane of the tabletop and should not protrude above its plane. The upper working surface of the desktop should be coated with wear-resistant varnish and polished.

For greater safety when working with a homemade device, it is advisable to install a swinging protective cover over the cutting edge of the disk.

Base design

For safe operation of a homemade circular saw, the table must be installed on a sufficiently rigid and durable base. To make it manually, the master’s imagination is given complete freedom. The base can be made in the form of a wooden base, but it is better to weld it from a corner (such as an aquarium frame) in accordance with the size of the tabletop.

Some manufacturing nuances

The main parameter that determines the design of a homemade “circular saw” is the thickness of the boards being cut. For household work with your own hands, it is usually not necessary to saw wood thicker than 15.0 ... 20.0 millimeters. To change the depth of the cut, you can use and/or make a special mechanism for lifting the disk, but this will significantly complicate the design of the homemade product.

When choosing a drive motor, the rotation speed of its shaft should be taken into account. Using a belt drive, you can change the speed with your own hands. If you intend to use an electric drill as a drive, then preference should be given to models with variable chuck rotation speed, then using such a hand-made circular saw will be a pleasure.

Conclusion

Despite the primitiveness of the described design, it will significantly facilitate DIY homework, from carpentry operations with boards to cross-cutting thick branches cut from garden trees.

If you want to learn how to make a table for a circular saw with your own hands, then read the article.

It talks about the materials that will be needed during the project and the main steps in the process aimed at creating a simple but functional structure.

Materials and tools

A circular saw is a “serious” tool, when using it you must observe safety precautions.

A homemade table, which can be used as a tool stand, will allow you to carry out any manual work with greater accuracy and with less risk of injury.

Before you make a table, you need to spend time carefully planning its design.

It is best to create a detailed drawing containing pre-calculated dimensions of the future “stand”.

The tabletop on which the saw can later be installed should be made of either metal or hardwood. It is better to avoid using resinous wood.

The dimensions of the tabletop should be selected in such a way that they correspond to the planned sawing flow.

It is better to use wooden legs as a base. Plastic, even strong and high-quality, should not be used, since it is not the most reliable material for making a saw table.

So that the made table “functions” in full force, it should be equipped with metal guides capable of moving material under the saw, or rather, under its working blade.

The optimal size of the bed, suitable for most typical sawing work, is one hundred twenty by one hundred twenty centimeters.

If you want to make your table wide and long, then take care of additional supports that will support its structure.

In particular, to give the product stability, it can be equipped with six legs rather than four.

The manual table is assembled using additional materials, including:

• wooden beams intended to form the frame of the structure;
• fastening dowels;
• wood glue;
• metal “corners” for attaching legs;
• nails and screws.

Tools that may be needed during the work:

• tape measure and a rigid construction ruler;
• electric jigsaw or hacksaw;
• a device having an installed milling tip;
• sandpaper (or sanding device);
• hammer and plane;
• screwdriver (or screwdriver).

Stages of making a table for a circular saw

Creating a saw table should begin with assembling its frame. To perform this procedure, you can use beams or edged boards, the size of which is fifty by one hundred and fifty millimeters.

The boards need to be knocked together into a single square or rectangular structure, which will serve as both a screed for the frame and a basis for attaching the legs.

The completed frame should be connected to the legs using special metal corners, dowels and screws during the process.

These devices should also be used to connect the assembled frame to the tabletop.

As an alternative, the frame elements can be connected not to each other, but to the legs of the future table. Some carpenters believe that this design is more durable.

The saw must be installed on an inverted bed. Thanks to this, its body and motor will be on the bottom, and the disk, otherwise called the working blade, will be on top.

The hole that allows you to deepen the saw blade into the table should be cut out in advance using a hacksaw or electric jigsaw.

It is important to remember the correct size of the hole, which will reliably “hold” the saw, ensuring the overall integrity of the structure.

Most circular saws have special metal parts that give them stability.

To fix the device on the tabletop, you should make four bars with sawn grooves and drill holes in them for long bolts.

After installing the saw, you should place the prepared bars on its carriage, thereby pressing the device to the bottom of the tabletop.

When attaching the support bars and saw to the tabletop, it is important not to damage the outer part of the bed so as not to create obstacles on its surface for the normal movement of the boards intended for sawing.

Once the saw is securely attached to the table, you need to turn the bed over and screw it to the tie frame.

At this stage of work, you should make sure that all work was carried out correctly and the device is functioning without problems.

Only then can material guides be attached to the table.

Additional Information

Carpentry work requires attention. If you want to make a high-quality and reliable table designed for installing a circular saw, then thoroughly prepare for the process and purchase all the necessary materials and tools.

After assembling the frame, be sure to install it on a flat surface and check that the tabletop of the structure does not overhang it in any direction.

It is better to install the table in the place where it will stand in the future, in order to exclude possible problems associated with uneven floors.

If, due to an uneven floor, the table vibrates during operation of the saw, then the length of the legs should be adjusted using thick felt or rubber.

The tabletop of the product can be either monolithic or folding. To create a folding saw table, you will have to spend more time and material, and pay special attention to improving the reliability of the frame when disassembled.

Dimensions consumables, used to create the table, are determined empirically. Ideally, the height of the structure should correlate well with the height of the owner of the saw.

The hole that will be made in the table top must match the dimensions of the specific saw available.

To extend the service life of all materials used, assembled into a single structure, they should be treated with special chemical solutions, capable of increasing the performance characteristics of wood or metal (for example, protecting their surface from corrosion, rotting, mold, etc.).

It is better to process wood or metal outdoors rather than indoors, so as not to be poisoned by active fumes.

Inspired by this article, you can make not only a reliable stand for a circular saw, but also a table where you can drink and eat when the whole family gathers.

The technology that underlies the creation of a dining table is in many ways similar to the diagram that can be used to put together a wooden table for a circular saw.

When carrying out work aimed at creating a table for a circular saw, it is important to remember safety precautions.

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A hand-held circular saw is a powerful mechanism with significant productivity. One of the key advantages of a circular saw is excellent maneuverability. But there are also disadvantages, especially if large sizes of wood need to be cut. To make the process easier, you can simply make a table for the circular saw yourself.

Design requirements

Experienced craftsmen are ready to create a table for a circular table with their own hands without any techniques or drawings. However, certain conditions still need to be taken into account.

The essential requirements include:

The availability of different functions depends on the working conditions and wishes of the specialist. These include the ability to carry out high-quality longitudinal and transverse cuts.

Standard products, of which shopping centers hundreds, made of stainless steel. This is wonderful material , but further we consider the production of a table for a saw from wood.

Table design for a manual circular saw is so elementary that most specialists produce it without preparatory drawings and techniques. This is a dense workbench that is created from wood and plywood.

The most durable table bases are made from alloy. They are the heaviest and require the presence of welding skills. Therefore, stands are often made from leftover lumber. A circular saw is attached under the tabletop, the drive protrudes above it through a specially made slot. The lumber is advanced along the table top and sawn with a disk. For convenience and correct operation, the table is equipped with additional devices: an angular and longitudinal stop.

The tabletop “absorbs” part of the working plane of the disk; the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the tabletop. For this reason, it is preferable to choose a circular with the largest disc diameter, and the table cover is thin but rigid.

If you have not purchased an electric saw yet, choose modifications with high power (from 1200 W). They can handle cutting large-sized wood. Holes will be drilled to secure the base. The solid base may burst. For this reason, it is advisable to select a mechanism of a different type.

Material selection

To do circular table with your own hands, you need to remember carpentry skills, have a lot of patience and a small number of materials and devices.

Materials:

Devices:

• jigsaw;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• ruler.

The volume of the countertop will depend on the workshop area. At the same time, it will be uncomfortable to saw large pieces on a small table. If the part is completely fits on the working plane, the cut is made smoother and more accurately. The height of the legs is chosen depending on the height of the master.

Working with a circular saw is very dangerous, for this reason you need to worry about protecting your fingers. Cut a pusher from a piece of wood or furniture board.

Additions to the completed design

Some craftsmen, when assembling a table for a hand-held circular saw according to unique drawings, completely remove the factory safety cover and replace the factory platform with a homemade one. If cutting at an angle is not planned, you can remove all devices for adjusting the tilt of the disk. The electric saw is fixed directly to the new base, which makes it possible to gain a couple of millimeters of cutting depth.

Without inner casing it is easier to remove the disc; the electric saw will not become clogged with shavings when working with wet boards. Dismantling will require extra time, but the service life of the motor is preserved and overload is prevented.

Mounting a circular saw

The matter remains small. The circular electric saw is located inside the prepared hole. The sole is secured with bolts, and the gear drive must fit freely into the socket.

The table for the circular saw is almost ready. Now it needs to be treated with a moisture-protecting material, then coated with varnish in several layers (to minimize slipping).

The resulting system can be supplemented with anything at the user’s discretion (safety cover, device for adjusting the tilt of the disk, carriage, etc.).

A few words about electronics

A circular saw is electrical special equipment that operates from a 220 V power source. If the user has sufficient knowledge and skill in the field of electronics, he is able to bypass the start and pause keys of the saw, and then move them to a convenient place (usually the outside 1st of the stiffeners).

If the model seems complicated, you need to tighten the start button with a wire, and turn on the special equipment using a power cord. However, this method is bad because it eliminates the possibility of quickly turning off the device in the event of an emergency.

Safety requirements

1. One of the most common causes of injuries when using a circular saw is considered to be a cluttered workplace. In addition, it is important to monitor the stability and strength of absolutely all components of the system, and if there is imbalance, take measures to eliminate difficulties.
2. Before connecting the saw, you must make sure that it is well secured. If necessary, tighten the screws/bolts.
3. It is strictly forbidden to hold the material close to the cutting site! This is dangerous as knots and chips bounce into the eyes or onto open parts of the body. Be sure to wear glasses before work and clothes with sleeves.

Making your own saw table is not as difficult a task as it might seem. If you have good material at hand, its characteristics are chosen correctly, and the power of the device ranges from 500 to 1000 W, the above instructions will be the basis of the work.

You should not lose sight of the fact that at any stage of table production you should control the accuracy of your own operations. Otherwise, if deviations in size or deformation of the legs appear when the ribs are tightened, it will be very difficult to restore stability. Nevertheless, making a table for a circular table with your own hands is an absolutely realistic task that will take several hours.

Additional Important Information

Carpentry work required special attention. If you want to make a high-quality and highly reliable table for a circular saw with your own hands, then be well prepared for the work.

Do the following:

Using this article as inspiration, you can make a durable table saw stand for your circular saw.

The household often lacks a circular saw, especially if major renovations or construction are underway. Not everyone can afford industrial products - they are too expensive. But you can make a circular saw yourself, using materials that are available in the household.

Design - main components, their purpose

A do-it-yourself stationary circular saw is created with advancement in several possible directions:

• adapting existing hand tools using the motor and circular saw for new capabilities;
• improvement of industrial products to expand functionality;
• assembly of individual parts, manufactured mainly in-house.

A stationary circular machine includes several main components: a table, a shaft, a motor and some others, the characteristics of which are not so important.

The table is used for fastening woodworking mechanisms. It can be assembled entirely from metal, which is preferable, especially for machines with a high-power engine. Wood also makes good circular tables. But it is necessary to take into account that the tabletop should be covered with a sheet of metal, otherwise the wood will soon wear out. Tables must be very rigid and stable, capable of withstanding considerable load during work. The surface is made perfectly flat; protective shields must be installed above the rotating parts.

For a homemade circular machine, a washing machine motor is quite suitable. Portable tools are less suitable: their commutator motors are designed only for short-term work. They have very high speeds, low efficiency, and are afraid of clogging. You can use a three-phase electric motor, but if the household does not have 380 V, you will need to purchase capacitors to make it work on 220 V.

The most critical component is the shaft. Use a ready-made one, if available, or machine it from round metal. Work for lathe performed in one installation, then the assembly with the working parts is checked for centering. Even minimal runout is unacceptable, otherwise during work it will become stronger, at which it is unacceptable to work. Seats are provided on the shaft: for a circular saw and for pulleys on the other side. You can also make grooves for planing knives.

Main parameters - calculation of power, speed, gear

The characteristics of the circular saw, the engine and the maximum thickness of lumber that can be cut are interconnected. The maximum speed for which it is designed is indicated on the purchased circular disk. The number of revolutions transmitted by the engine to the shaft should be less. The engine power affects the maximum permissible saw tooth diameter. The diameter must be at least three times the thickness of the material, otherwise sawing will be difficult. It is believed that to cut materials 100 mm thick, you need a motor of at least 1 kW of power.

The transmission is made only by a V-belt - if foreign objects get under the saw, the material jams, the belt slips on the pulleys. Injuries in such cases are practically eliminated. It is important to choose the right gear ratio. We take into account two indicators: engine speed and the maximum permissible speed of the circular saw. We calculate the required pulley diameters. A pulley with a large diameter is installed on the engine, and a smaller one on the circular shaft to increase the number of revolutions.

The revolutions of the shaft with a circular saw are as many times greater than the engine revolutions as the diameter of its pulley is smaller than the diameter of the pulley on the engine.

Woodworking machine - a capital product for the home

To work with wood in large volumes, it is better to have a machine that allows you to cut the material, plan it, and select a quarter. A fairly powerful electric motor and a rigid table are required. We present a structure made of steel angle and sheet steel. It provides a cutting depth of 60 mm; you can plan boards 200 mm wide. A three-phase motor of 1.1 kW, 2700 rpm is used. To connect to 220 V, capacitors are required.

1 – machine frame; 2 – panel; 3 – starter; 4 – device for height adjustment; 5.7 – work table of two halves; 6 – base; 8 – engine; 9 – platform; 10 – M10 studs; 11 – circular disk; 12 – shaft; 13 – stops of the lifting mechanism; 14 – driven pulley; 15 – belt; 16 – drive pulley; 17 – switch.

The work table has dimensions of 700×300 mm. In the drawing we see that the height of the entire structure is 350 mm. The height is not sufficient for comfortable work; the circular saw will have to be installed on an additional platform; it weighs only 35 kg. You can increase the length and width, increase the height up to 1200 mm. We adjust the remaining sizes to fit them, but design features remain unchanged.

First we make the bed frame from steel corners 25x25 mm. If we are not going to increase the height, we make another similar lower frame. For a frame with a higher height, first we weld four legs from the same corners to the upper frame, and then we tie them at a height of 15–20 cm from the bottom. The lower frame has grooves for the engine platform locking bolts. Two studs are welded to the back side of the platform, which go into holes on the back of the lower frame. By tightening the studs, we tighten the belts, then we lock the platform by tightening the nuts on the studs that go into the grooves.

To adjust the height of the table in relation to the saw, we use a simple lifting mechanism. It consists of racks, in the upper part of which we cut grooves at an angle of 45°. A total of eight racks are needed - four on each side. We weld them to the frame with grooves located in a mirror image. We attach cross members to the outer posts. We drill holes in the middle of each of them and weld nuts. Threaded shafts will move along them to regulate the lift.

Their ends rest against racks welded to frames assembled from 75x50 mm corners. We weld studs into them on the side opposite the grooves for the adjustment mechanism. The table consists of two equal halves and is attached to the frames with countersunk bolts. The adjustment mechanism works like this:

• loosen the nuts on the racks;
• we turn the screw, which presses on the stop, raising or lowering the table;
• tighten the stud nuts;
• We perform a similar adjustment for the second half of the working surface.

The design can be simplified without installing an adjusting shaft. Raise and lower the table manually. If you assemble the table not from two halves, but from one piece, you will only need four racks for the lifting mechanism.

Hand-held circular saw - turning into a stationary one

It’s easy to make a stationary one from a hand-held circular saw, expanding its capabilities. The first thing you need is a table. A convenient material is Finnish plywood, which, unlike ordinary plywood, is laminated - the workpieces glide well over the surface during processing. It is thick enough to withstand a lot of weight, moisture resistant, and easy to process. You can use ordinary 20 mm plywood, but you just need to paint it, or better yet, cover it with sheet steel or textolite.

You need to understand that the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the cover. You will need a large diameter disk so as not to reduce functionality compared to a portable tool. We make the dimensions of the tabletop sufficient to ensure that the workpiece fits in width. It should be added that on a wide table you can additionally strengthen an electric plane and a jigsaw, which will make the machine universal.

Using drawings and explanations, it is not difficult to make additional accessories for a circular saw that will expand its capabilities.

We mark a rectangle of the required dimensions on a sheet of plywood, cut it out, and process the edges. Using the sole, we apply a hand-held circular saw to the surface and mark the attachment points with a pencil. We make a slot for the circular saw. You can slightly deepen the attachment point using a milling cutter, but not more than 10 mm, so as not to weaken the tabletop. This manufacturing method will allow you to bring the cutting depth closer to that indicated in the circular saw’s passport.

From the boards we make a frame (tsars), which we install from below to strengthen the structure. We fasten four boards into a box, glue them to the tabletop, securing them with clamps. We screw self-tapping screws into the boards across the table. We countersink the holes for them from above so that the heads of the screws are hidden. We attach the legs to the frames of the stationary saw, preferably with bolts, washers and nuts. The table should be provided with additional rigidity, so we make spacers at the bottom of the legs.

We make a limit bar equal to the length of the working surface. In it we drill two grooves perpendicular to the disk, in which the bar will move and be fixed at a certain distance from the saw blade. It remains to make changes to the control system: we fix the control button in the on state with electrical tape. We install an outlet connected to the network on the drawer. We install a switch in the gap in the wire going to the saw.

Some aspects of the execution of homemade devices

No matter how well a circular machine is made, individual errors can lead to its performance being limited. This concerns, at first glance, seemingly trifles. Let's start with the bearings for the shaft. Installing conventional ones is justified if the machine is used from time to time. For a homemade device with permanent use, it is better to install self-aligning bearings. They consist of two rows of balls and are adjusted by tightening the clamping nut. Be sure to install a cover to protect against dust and chips.

On the working surface we apply a scale in centimeter increments. This will make woodworking much easier when determining the width of the cut. Many people neglect to install a protective shield over the disk, but in vain - treatment for chips getting into the eye or in more serious situations is more expensive.

When working with various materials, it is often necessary to adjust the speed of the circular saw. A homemade design, as a rule, does not have the ability to regulate engine speed. There is only one way out - the use of pulleys of different diameters. They are installed on the motor shaft. If you decide to order pulleys from a turner, immediately make a solid pulley with two or three different diameters.

Many people want to install a three-phase electric motor on a sawing machine, without having 380 V. They will need capacitors designed for a minimum operating voltage of 600 V of paper or oil-paper type.

We calculate the capacitance of the capacitors based on the power of the electric motor: for 1 kW - 100 µF for the working capacitor Av. We take the capacity of the starting joint twice as large. The SB trigger is a button that automatically returns to its original position. Startup is simple: turn on SQ, press SB for a couple of seconds. After starting, the button is released, as soon as the engine picks up speed, you can cut.